St Michael's Church, Bowness-on-Solway

St Michael’s Church at Bowness-on-Solway feels like it is located at the top of the world (though the Scotsmen who look south upon it may consider it at the bottom the world). It is built out of the stones from Hadrian’s Wall which terminated just a couple of hundred yards to the west. This is where border raids occurred, where invasions commenced, and where Reivers harried and harangued. Little wonder the church appears so heavy and defensive: war and conquest are literally built into its fabric and have remained with it through its 900-year existence. Wonderfully thick buttresses support it in most directions: this is a church built to last, built to survive, built to endure.

The internals are not as heavy and gloomy as the externals portend. Large numbers of handmade kneelers were on display, often with royal themes. This splash of colour was a welcome surprise.

Also, a Norman font. Unlike the bulk of its contemporaries, its intricate design is a genuine artistic flourish. Most examples from the 12th century are solid and plain, but this one is a delight to behold.

There are churches and chapels which are ornate without and plain within; St Michael’s is the other way round. I do rather like the idea of the Church being a defensible fortress, a bulwark against the world and the devil, yet a veritable treasure house and store of beauty and grace to all who will enter and submit to Christ.

A mighty fortress is our God,
a bulwark never failing;
our helper he, amid the flood
of mortal ills prevailing.
For still our ancient foe
does seek to work us woe;
his craft and power are great,
and armed with cruel hate,
on earth is not his equal.

That Word above all earthly powers
no thanks to them abideth;
the Spirit and the gifts are ours
through him who with us sideth.
Let goods and kindred go,
this mortal life also;
the body they may kill:
God's truth abideth still;
his kingdom is forever!

-Martin Luther (tr. Hedge)